Camino Day 13: The home stretch
Vilanova de Arousa to Cruces on the Camino Portugués Variante Espiritual and Central Route
Distance walked: 7.2 mi (12.3 km)
Total walked so far: 163.6 mi (263.3 km)
Boat route: Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures
Walking route: Pontecesures to Cruces ***
It’s weird staying in an albergue all alone! But that’s what I did. And I slept great by myself in a room made for six. Got ready and headed out. It was unsuccessful i in my search for coffee. Not much to do except wait to board the boat.
Today’s journey will begin with an hour boat trip from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures - the so-called La Translatio route. This is said to be the sea route that the body of the martyred St. James followed on the way to what became Santiago. It completes the Variant Espiritual, and features the (allegedly) only maritime Roman Catholic “Stations of the Cross”, which mark the way to Santiago. I love boats and am happy to start my day a little differently before commencing my walk.
We first saw the many platforms used by Galicians to farm mussels. Apparently the region is second (behind far larger Canada) in mussel production worldwide. We then journeyed through the Ria de Arousa to the Rio Ulla, viewing the crosses, which would eventually deliver us to our end point.
Bao was on the tour as well and wanted a picture once we disembarked. The boat was nice and I was happy to get underway at Pontecesures. I tried to keep up with Mattis and Ed (the other California from the beginning, who I’ve kept in touch with but may not have named yet). This failed due to 1) the crowds gathered at the market and 2) my leg pain. After a mile I lost them and grabbed a solo coffee.
I got some amazing (and cheap!) fresh churros from a vendor and set out. I had several nice visits at area churches and added a few more stamps to my credencial. I’ve still got plenty of room so perhaps I’ll load up today! I’m glad I decided at the start not to charge for Santiago this day. Splitting it is both great for my leg and provides time to explore a little!
A little before 3 miles in I stopped for a coffee and to rest my leg. From there the rest of the walk went fine, and only saw a little light rain in the last 15 min. It’s so hard to believe that tomorrow I’ll arrive in Santiago!
I’ve booked a nice place about halfway between Pontesecures and Santiago. The host isn’t around but one other guest has already arrived and there are likely at least a few more. I got in a bit before 3PM so we will have time to relax this afternoon. Sounds good to me!
On the walk today I found myself thinking about what I’ve learned, plan to take home, leave behind, etc. It was a good start to a thought process that will surely continue until I’m on my way home, and then perhaps not wrap up until I’m home and take time to reflect on the trip. Going through my pictures and notes will surely help, and that will take a bit of (well-worth it!) time. I’m starting to think I have more writing to do!
*** I screwed up recording the route on my Garmin watch for the first time today. The first portion of the walk (from the docks to the busy market square) was missed in the route video as a result. But the mileage walked listed here (7.2) is correct!